Lucca is a medieval walled city in Tuscany, about an hour and a half train ride from Florence. And it was the place that made me fall in love with Italy. I mean, head-over-sensible-walking-shoes in love.

I found about a million and six things to appreciate in Lucca, but I don’t want to tire you. So, here are a just a few key items.

Peace and quiet: Compared to Florence’s 400,000, Lucca has a population of 9,000 and I saw only about 30 of them on any given day. And very few tourists. It’s the perfect place to grab a gelato — go to Heaven Sent on Garibaldi near San Michele. Crema (custard) and nocciola (hazelnut) are my favorites.

San Giovanni: The church itself is gorgeous and has an interesting history. But underneath the church is where all the fun is - an excavation site with remains of a roman bath and a private residence from the first century BC. There’s even ancient graffiti and a crypt. And at night, the church hosts opera recitals. I went on a whim and was blown away. Lucca is Puccini’s hometown, so I was treated to arias from Madame Butterfly, La Boheme and a few others. Magnificent.

The Wall: Rent a bike (or a tandem!), or just take off on foot and wander the park areas that line the entire top of the city’s wall. Every morning after breakfast, I did a lap (4km total circumference) and enjoyed the quiet and the smell of baking bread. In the afternoon, I took a book and parked myself on a bench. It’s the perfect place to do absolutely nothing.

Friday, November 16, 2007 | general