barcelona: gauche to gaudi
Even after visiting it twice, I can’t decide if The Rambla is fascinating or repulsive. Maybe it’s both, in equal measure.
Some of the street performers are magnetic - drawing crowds of tourists, cranky old Spaniards, and a few drunks. Others are simply sad. Painted head-to-toe in suffocating metallic paints, squawking or jerking robotically, hoping for a few Euro. Among the street vendors selling tourist-trap souvenirs are those selling live animals. The lines of cages filled with birds - pigeons, doves, chickens, peacocks, finches - make me unhappy. I want to buy them all and then simply open their cages and let them go. Who puts a peacock in a cage? Or a pigeon for that matter.
Ignoring the gauche glare of the Rambla, Barcelona is a showcase for the more… inspiring work of architect Antoni Gaudi. The Sagrada Familia, under perpetual construction, is one of the most fantastic things I’ve ever seen. From what I understand, it’s strictly a love or hate experience. I loved it. Not exactly one to come easy by such feelings (I used to spend church pulling up my sisters’ dresses and making up new words to the hymns), I was struck with such an awe and reverence. It’s the kind of place you want to have all to yourself. But good luck with that. Even with the 8 Euro entry fee, the place is packed.
As is Park Guell - or Gaudi Park. On a hillside, a good two-mile walk from the buzz of Placa del Catalunya (take the walk - it’s gorgeous and the subway only gets you so close anyway), the park is an amazing sight. Your camera will love it. But don’t set your hopes too high on getting off a shot of the famous dragon sculpture. Unless, of course, you don’t mind having fifty strangers make a cameo in it. Park Guell is also a nice spot to get lost in the quiet. You won’t have to walk too far uphill from the Gaudi Museum to ditch most of the other tourists. You’ll share the walking paths with the locals - mostly older folks and their dogs. And some old men who will talk about your bum as you walk by.
Funny, the things people will say when they don’t think you understand.
Barcelona is definitely not my favorite European city but Sagrada Familia is something to see. My husband and I actually went to Mass in the lower church when we were there a few years ago. It is quite something!
hi fish, i liked barcelona too. went 2 years back. and absolutely loved gaudi’s work. i do mosaic and came back brimming with ideas.
tried posting a pic of me with the dragon at parc guell minus the hoardes but couldn’t…
envy you being there.
i did a day trip to figures, dali’s birth place. its a small quaint village.
had also wanted to go to sitges, a sea side gay village, but didnt manage to. have heard its worth it!
I’ve been stuck in the office for a month now, your blog is great, it makes me feel like i’m out there with you. One question, what camera do you use, the colors are amazing?
I really like Barcelona and was there last weekend. Weirdest thing I saw all weekend was near the Ramblas - about 10pm on a Friday night a naked man with a backpack wandering around like it was the most normal thing in the world.
Did you see him at all?
I was in barcelona last december and if you get up early enough you can be the only person in Parc Guell. I also had a nice guided tour of the walking paths with a local. He told me the story of the city and pointed out the sites from the top of the hill. It was definitely different then the first time I was there which mirrored your experience.
Glad you’re enjoying Barcelona. I wasn’t a huge fan (although I did enjoy La Boqueria), but I’m also past the partying til 6am thing and staying in a hostel full of the opposite for 3 days was not very restful. Anyway, I hope you plan to check out Granada and Sevilla. The flamenco is wonderful in Sevilla, and my favorite city in spain was Granada - LOVE the Alhambra - so beautiful.
So was it nice things about your bum?
Has it occurred to you yet that perhaps they wanted you to overhear?
Hi Fish,
I used to read your blog at college, and then stopped (for a few months after graduating) because I moved to Africa for a year. Its so lovely to hear that you are also traveling around. I agree that living in a new country is one of the best things young people can do. I’m excited to keep up with your travels. Good luck!
p.s. I LOVED Barcelona! I lived on La Ramblas, and it was a non-stop show.